Krabi's other side Kayaking through Tha Lane's stunning mangrove and limestone cliffs presents a facet of Krabi not known to most tourists who are generally more at home with its exotic beaches and life under the sea. Paddling quietly, I steered my kayak into a narrow channel between the maze of roots of mangrove trees and towering cliffs to find a pairs of eyes staring at me. "Crab-eating macaque," whispered my guide Saravuth Nukhao, afraid to frighten the animal. "As you may know the mangrove forest is a nursery for marine life. There are few forms of wildlife that you won't find elsewhere, such as the fishing cat and a species of rare snake. It is like a sanctuary." Tha Lane Bay in Muang District is different from what tourists usually know of Krabi. There is no blue sea and colourful coral reef. Here, the evergreen mangrove forest stretches over 2,000 rai surrounded by limestone cliffs 50 metres high. Although it is not as beautiful like some parts of Krabi, it is rich in biological diversity. Tha Lane Bay is home to 32 mangrove species of the 47 found in Thailand. On and around the limestone cliffs grow plants that thrive on rain water and humidity. They range from palms and cacti to ferns. It is interesting to note that none of the trees in this forest surrounded by the sea can survive solely on saline water. Plant roots filter sea water and release salt other harmful substances creating a white film on the water's surface that makes the mangrove look dirty. However, beneath the white layer exists a paradise for small marine life forms. "Forty years ago the local people felled trees virtually denuding the area. Only now they have realised that it was a big mistake. There is less fish to catch and stronger winds to cope with. But the mangrove is limping back to life." I spotted a kingfisher waiting for its prey on a tree while the black drongo sent out a call to mark its territory and schools of small mullet darts swam beneath our kayak. The mangrove, however, is no good for those who lack paddling skills. It's difficult to go through the winding channel between the trees and the maze created by their roots. Some tourists set aside their oars and used hands to steer the kayaks forward. But they still struggled. Saravuth led me through a lush canopy of trees to witness some remarkable places hidden in the forest. Lagoons nestled quietly in the hug of limestone cliffs. The highlight of Tha Lane Bay was that the cliffs rose nearly a kilometre into the sky. Paddling around I looked up and was awestruck by the beauty. At the end of canyon, the wind was fierce pointing to imminent rain. It was then that I realised how safe and dry it was inside this natural shelter, not only for me but all life forms that had made the mangrove their home. Paddling through the canyon of Tha Lane was indeed a marvellous experience that opened up my eyes to a lesser known side of Krabi. |