Peak Time Despite the low season, or because of it, northern Thailand presents a pleasant escape from summer's stifling heat and a chance to explore the region's natural beauty with little interference from fellow visitors. A case in point is Doi Inthanon National Park in Chiang Mai where the mercury read a cool 15 degrees Celsius at the height of afternoon when we travelled in May to the highest mountain peak in the country. Doi Inthanon at its highest point is 2,565 metres (8,415 feet) above sea level and it was covered in mist. Frankly we didn't expect such cold weather since nearby in Chiang Mai city it was hot as it is in Bangkok, and tourists dressed casually in shorts and T-shirts. According to the park officer, temperature on Doi Inthanon averages a pleasant 23 degrees Celsius all year round. The park straddles 482 square kilometres or 301,500 rai covering the districts of Chom Thong, Mae Chaem and Mae Wang, and it is the source of many waterfalls and rivers. The park supports a diversity of animal and plant life, including 382 types of birds - the second highest in terms of bird species found in Thailand's national parks, a popular one being the green-tailed sunbird (Aethopyga nipalensis) that is very small and feeds mainly on nectar. "You can spot them along the three-kilometre-long Kew Mae Pan trail," said Charoen, a park guide. "Another attraction is the goral." He disclosed that every year researchers pitch tents on the trail to keep a count of their population because it is a rare animal that looks like a serow, but half its size. It lives high in the mountain along the sparsely vegetated cliffs of Kew Mae Pan near crevices that are its natural hideout. Some 30 of them are spotted every year, give or take a few. Then there're the Rufous-throated partridge, red jungle fowl, palm civet, chital deer and wild boar - of the latter two we only saw footprints and excrement they had left on the trail. A recent addition, courtesy of Her Majesty the Queen, is the silver pheasant that were released two years ago, not just for their beauty but also the role they play in balancing the park ecology, said Charoen. Silvery white and measuring 50-125 centimetres in length, it has red face, legs and a glossy black abdomen. It feeds on fruits, seeds, young shoots, insects, worms and small reptiles, and you have to be really stealthy to be able to spot one. Apart from wildlife, the Kew Mae Pan trail also presented a panoramic sweep of Mae Chaem district, but only after we're made to wait for the fog to clear. At the end of the three-hour trek, we still had enough left in our tanks so we decided to walk another trail leading to the village of Pakakayor hill tribe people called Ban Mae Klang Luang. The villagers plant rice, fruits and vegetables on mountain slopes at altitudes 1,200 metres above sea level. They also raise trouts in terraced cement ponds. Nick, our guide from the village, said Ban Mae Klang Luang is an ecotourism destination that has been welcoming visitors for eight years now. It offers them homestay service and can take in up to 150 visitors at any given time. The trekking starts at Km 30 which is a short walk from park headquarters. First we walked downhill and passed a Hmong village whose residents grew flowers and fruits such as orange and apricot for a living. Then the trail led to Pha Dok Sieo Fall, the source of water for Ban Mae Klang Luang. In its pools were black fish that appeared still like a rock. Nick said the forest trail boasted creatures such as the minivet, woodpecker and pheasant, popular among bird watchers. Arriving at the village we were treated to steaming cups of coffee brewed from fresh Arabica beans grown in an organic plantation just next to the village. Each of us bought a 250-gram coffee bag to take home. "We have lived in harmony with nature all our life. We know we have to protect our forest and source of water for the coming generations," said Nick, "because the forest is very much part of our life." MORE INFO Between October 2005-September 2006 Doi Inthanon National Park attracted 433,843 visitors, making it the sixth most popular tourist destination in the country after Doi Suthep-Doi Pui, Khao Yai, Chet Sao Noi Waterfall, Ko Samet and Plew Waterfall. From Chiang Mai take Route 108 to Chomthong. At Km 57 (one kilometre before Amphur Chomthong) turn right on Route 1009 (Chomthong-Doi Inthanon Road). At Km 31 of this road is the park headquarters. If you don't drive, there is 'songthaew' service from Chang Phuek Gate in Chiang Mai city that will take you to Chomthong (fare 32 baht). Then you've to hire a yellow 'songthaew' to the national park. The price is around 900 baht for a day trip. Kew Mae Pan trail is at Km. 42 on the Chom Thong-Doi Inthanon route. However, the trail is closed during June to October. Rhododendrons are in bloom from November to March. - Accommodation and food are available at the park headquarters. For more information, call 053-268-550. An alternative is to stay at privately run Inthanon Eco Hut (081-881-7346 and 089-952-3327). It is behind park headquarters. Rates range from 600-3,000 baht/night. - Ban Mae Klang Luang can be accessed by car at Km 26. For homestay and trekking, call Mr Somsak Khiriphumthong at 081-960-8856 or Mr Thongkham Chumthongsuk at 087-178-0231. Bangkok Post |