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Rafting the Nam Khek

Rafters converge to test the raging rapids of a stream that runs through Phitsanulok

Every monsoon season, the Nam Khek stream in Phitsanulok and the rolling hills of neighbouring Phetchabun turn vibrant, inviting adventure buffs to come and test their skills against swollen rapids and experience the remote wilderness of an area that not until long ago was off-limit to tourists.

Every monsoon season, the Nam Khek stream in Phitsanulok and the rolling hills of neighbouring Phetchabun turn vibrant, inviting adventure buffs to come and test their skills against swollen rapids and experience the remote wilderness of an area that not until long ago was off-limit to tourists.

Originating in the mountains, the Nam Khek takes on a distinct muddy-red tinge at this time of the year as monsoon rains wash the topsoil into the stream. The raging stream is a challenge to rafters who converge to tame the rapids that rate 1-4 on the difficulty scale.

The best section for rafting is a eight-kilometre stretch in Wang Thong district of Phitsanulok. While seasoned rafters enjoy it immensely, it's also a good training ground for beginners as the rapids are gentle to start with but become stronger as you move downstream.

"Nam Khek starts lazily with rapids measuring 1 or 2 on the difficulty scale when rafters can sit back and relax. But slowly the rapids increase in intensity and that is when the real challenge begins," the coxswain said before we set out.

Myself and a few friends from previous rafting excursions had chosen Nam Khek for our reunion, so we more or less knew what to expect along the route. The early part was easy and relaxed which we spent time recounting old experiences and cracking jokes, filling the valley with laughter.

"Guys, hold tight," the coxswain yelled. "Real rapids ahead."

After passing seven rapids, we heard the roar of waves colliding against rocks in the distance. We were approaching a section called Sang Rapids characterised by fallen trees, giant rocks and sharp drops. The sound of laughter was now replaced by the roar of waves crashing against rocks. We paddled furiously to avoid rocks, our raft tossed up and down the stream by one wave after another.

Some rafters were complacent and thrown overboard. They were seen wading chest-deep water or swimming furiously crying out for help.

"That was level 4," the coxswain said. With a little more water it could have easily been level 5, I told myself, and shuddered at the prospect.

The Sang Rapids had our adrenaline pumping. It was a fitting build-up for the next one, Nang Koy, which our leader warned would be more fierce and challenging.

"No need to paddle, just hold tight," he shouted on top of the noise generated by the waves and the chaos all around us.

Nang Koy is one of the most difficult rapids along the route. The stream tapers at this point as a result of huge rocks blocking the path, defined by some sharp drops.

Further downstream is Yao Rapids that stretches some 100 metres. Laden with fallen trees and submerged rocks, it's a potential minefield for even seasoned rafters.

At the end of the excursion, a truly exhilarating experience, we decided to travel up the mountains to Phetchabun, a province once a hot bed of communist insurgency that was off-limit to tourists until the mid-1980s. Since then Phetchabun, and especially the district of Khao Kho, the former communist stronghold, has been turned into a tourist attraction that now boasts of several exotic resorts and hotels set against the backdrop of evergreen mountains and national parks.

Phetchabun has temperate climate this time of the year. The province is also famous for herbs whose properties its residents recognised long time ago. Today they are used in the production of facial lotions, soft drinks, wines, perfumes and soaps.

One of its more famous herbal houses is Khao Kho Talaypu that offers relaxing spa treatment and accommodation for visiting tourists.

The following morning we went to Mae Boon Mee noodle shop in Lom Kao District for a sumptuous breakfast of "Khanom Chine" or noodles made from rice, strong on herbs, and served with green leafy vegetables.

The noodles came in various colours; yellow denoted pumpkin flavour, pink implied water melon, and the blue ones were flavoured with pea. You could top off the noodles with a choice of herbal sausages, egg, meat ball, and roasted pork.

And with that ended our sojourn to the twin provinces of Phitsanulok and Phetchabun.
Bangkok Post September 2005 www.bangkokpost.com

 
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