Bangkok boasts of some of the world's best hotels today. But not very long ago there was a dearth of proper accommodation in the capital. Apart from a few that catered to foreign tourists, finding a proper place to stay was a major headache. If you look further back, say 50 years ago, you could literally count them on your finger tips, when air-conditioning was a luxury and hotel employment regarded a prestige job. Established in 1876, the Oriental is among Bangkok's pioneering hotels and one of the most recognised five-star properties, here as well as abroad. Its long history means it has been an integral part of the city's cultural and social scene, serving as a venue for performing arts since early 20th century when it was the hub of Europeans and their culture. Sitting on the Chao Phraya River, since then it has played host to countless international leaders, celebrities, diplomats and local VIPs. Famous for its service, style and grace, it boasts 393 luxurious rooms and suites, and five dining outlets that are in a class of their own. Ankana Kalantananda, 85, is a former employee who retired from the hotel 25 years ago but is still consulted on matters of guest relations. "When I began working the building was in a state of disrepair," she recalls. "We started with just 40 rooms. Those were the days of mosquito nets and ceiling fans. If a call came through the page boy would escort the guest from the room to the lobby to take the call. Staff were multi-tasked and on their toes all the time." Guests at the Oriental are privy to spectacular view of long-tailed boats, barges, ferries and temples. The hotel's architecture pretty much reflects its early history and evolution into a world-class hotel. Boonlert Panvivatanatana has served the Oriental over a decade working as assistant manager. He said hotel uniforms have changed over time and now the emphasis is on dresses made from local fabrics, a statement of its Thai heritage. Another hotel with a long past is Viengtai, a stone's throw from Khao San Road in Bang Lamphu district. Half a century old, the three-star hotel is family business currently run by Mrs Oranuj Osatanonda. It was built in 1951 by former governor Udom Boonyaprasop and his wife Khunying Raem Prommobol, Thailand's first practicing female attorney. Mrs Oranuj is their daughter. She recalled that her parents, who travelled a great deal to the South on official duty, saw a dearth of accommodation for people travelling to Bangkok from the provinces. "In those days most travellers stayed with friends or with relatives which wasn't always convenient," she said. "My parents decided to build a hotel with this particular group in mind. The name Viengtai derived from words Vieng and Tai - meaning walled city and the South respectively - was chosen to create an affinity with people from southern Thailand travelling to Bangkok." It opened with only 20 rooms. Bang Lamphu was chosen as the location because most of the government offices were in and around the district. Viengtai became popular because of its clean rooms, decent meals and service. Staff employed by the Food and Agriculture Organization on nearby Phra Arthit Road checked in occasionally. As business prospered her parents bought the adjacent plot, tore down the original structure and built an 80-100 room facility. After her father passed away in 1962, Khunying Raem ran the hotel, in the process adding a swimming pool and installing modern conveniences. She upgraded them as they became available in Thailand. In the old days Viengtai had security guards stationed on every floor, while the staff learned housekeeping from a nurse at Mission Hospital who was a friend of Khunying Raem. Later, a new building was added and the number of rooms rose to 215, including a parking facility for 150 cars. Since then it has consistently upgraded service and menu to keep abreast of the competition because Mrs Oranuj is aware that old is not always gold in the hotel business. The Mandarin Hotel on Rama IV Road has been around 40 years. The four-star property has 400 rooms and according to Songpon Asavabhokhin, its managing director, the hotel's claim to fame goes back to the time it played host to former US president Richard Nixon. "Four decades ago American and European tourists knew very little about Thailand," he reminisced. "They still thought elephants were the main mode of transportation in Bangkok and people lived in wooden huts. "Travellers came to Thailand for sheer adventure, not for shopping. They didn't care much about the style or amenities in their room, using it just as a place to crash out for the night." In those days, he recalled, the staff were genuinely eager to serve overseas guests because they wanted to learn about foreign cultures, but information technology has changed all that. Today they do it because it is required of them. Locals and tourists went to Pahurat and Chinatown to relax after a hard day's work, while Patpong also boasted a number of good eateries and bars, he remembered with a touch of nostalgia. |