Ayutthaya's other side Many of us visiting Ayutthaya mostly go there for its temple, art and its place in our history because it used to be the capital of ancient Siam. However, there is another side of this province that has gone relatively unnoticed by visitors, and that is its delicate handicrafts that reflect the life and mood of rural people and find an audience to this day. House of dolls The only known maker of figurines from clay in Ayutthaya, Sudjai Charoensuk has been in the business more than 30 years. ''My grand father, Songprawais Suwannanich, was a master craftsman who taught me this art when I was 11 years old,'' she said. One year later she was making them herself, and so proud and inspired was she of her accomplishment that she decided to turn it into a life long profession. She creates dolls in various postures that capture the spirit of people who work on farms. She captures their moods and encapsulates them in figures made from clay barely two inches tall, some even less, but with a clarity that must be seen to be believed. Every emotion, expression is communicated in its simplest and purest form. One object depicts a small boy with a shaven head, except for a small round patch in middle with his hair tied into a bun, trying to mount a buffalo with his pants well down his waist. In addition, she has also created whole scenes that variously show monks on their morning rounds, boats selling food by the river, elderly people lining up for offering alms, two kids carrying a pail to fetch water from a lotus pond, and a couple hammering mortar into a pestle to separate rice from the husk. ''The postures chosen are mostly from memory, from what I saw when I was still young,'' she said. But there was one showing a woman sitting on the floor, her legs tucked back rocking a cradle: it was purely from her imagination, she pointed out. Her mother and elder sister help her out when it comes to creating big items such as houses and tress. Her works have won her a large band of admirers. One of them, Wantana Peoungwong a retired kindergarten teacher, has bought virtually every Sudjai creation since 1996. Wantana's house is on Ramesuan Road, Ayutthaya, and she used the items to redecorate her living room which she has christened Baan Tukkata Thai or the House of Thai Dolls, and opened it to visitors free of charge. It's open daily 9am-4pm. The phone number is 035-241-064 and 01-780-2328. In Bangkok, Sudjai's works can be found at Gaysorn Plaza, Intercontinental and Grand China hotels and the old Siam Department Store. Jingle fish bells Another handicraft native to Ayutthaya is the colourful toy fish, usually barb, made from palm leaf that parents in the old days hung from cots to keep toddlers amused and entertained. The fish has delicate bells that jingle at slightest rustle of the wind. Since the age of nine, Katesunee Rungsatra, now 50, has been making the toy. Back then she used to help her parents do what she does today. The toy barb was a ploy for all occasions _ it was used to put toddlers to sleep and greet them when they woke up. ''We still get a lot of orders, so much so that we can't keep pace with them,'' said Katesunee who owns Bai Lan Pradit, a shop on U Thong Road opposite Worapho Temple. Her toy barbs have received three-star OTOP rating and also found demand overseas, including Japan where her wickerwork also won an award. One of her masterpieces is displayed on Si San Petch Road in Ayutthaya. It is valued at 90,000 baht and is probably the largest and tallest barb made from palm leaf in Thailand. When buying one, she suggests, look at details such as art lines along the scales, fins and tail. If they are done neatly, it is quality work. Their prices can range from 10 baht to 70,000 baht. Beside the barbs, she has also replicated gold fish, birds and butterflies. But barbs remain the most sought after. They come in blue, silver, red and gold colours. The most popular is a set of nine barbs in red colour. Candyfloss and bread Roti saimai, a popular Thai dessert, is essentially sugar in the form of fine thread wrapped in wafer thin, circular slices of cooked dough. It is one of the province's more famous recipes. Opposite Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Hospital on U-Thong Road, there is a row of shops selling the dessert, the fillings coming in various colours. They are run and by a Muslim family, the Saeng-aruns, that pioneered and has dominated the business for years. One of the shops is Bang Bee that began as a street vendor but has since won several awards in Ayutthaya. Its owner is so confident about the quality of his soft and munchy roti saimai that he dares customers to taste his product before buying. Altogether, the Saeng-aruns dispense with 400 kilogrammes of dough daily and by afternoon it is sold out. Artificial flowers Artificial flowers are another Ayutthaya specialty. Sommai Srimuang, 72, has been making them since she was 16 years old. ''We learned to make the flowers from Sin Wongsukrom who initially created them for use at funerals,'' she said. Later, their use was extended to religious rites. Everyday the flower-making technique and quality is improving and now her products are exported to Hong Kong, Japan and countries in Europe. Sommai is the leader of a handicraft group that comprises 27 housewives. She orders the raw materials from Prachin Buri and allocates them to members who create flowers according the customer's needs. The popular choices are rose, jasmine and opium. These artificial flowers also find application in spas. On average the flowers can generate an additional income of 3,000 baht a month for a family. Sommai house is in Soi Thungthong, a short drive from Wat Yai Chai Mongkon. |