Travel news - destinations in north Thailand

Cold front beckons

Northern Thailand is the preferred destination of local denizens who enjoy cold weather, particularly Chiang Mai which after the New Year will officially open night safari, the first in the country.

Among other activities, tourists can explore historical and cultural sites in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, or go rafting on Pai River in Mae Hong Son.

In Chiang Mai, the major draws are a former palace and the ancient ruins of Wiang Kum Kam, a 719-year-old Lanna city that preceded Chiang Mai. Excavated in 1984, it was officially opened in February last year.

The city remained buried until it was discovered by chance after a school tried to construct a building at the site, said Supot Boonmeun, a guide at Wiang Kum Kam.

A team of archaeologists was despatched there. It uncovered 42 historical sites, but only 28 were excavated - mostly temples - of which only nine are open to tourists.

The team also unearthed a dragon-like bas-relief sculpture and 55 pieces of antique pottery made from china, some of them well packed and still in good condition.

It's believed Wiang Kum Kam was the capital of Lanna Kingdom during the reign of Phaya Mengrai and preceded Chiang Mai by 10 years. It was also an important trading post.

Situated in the Ping River basin, it frequently got flooded during rainy season prompting Phaya Mengrai to move his capital to Chiang Mai, which was in the year 1295.

All that remains today are the brick ruins of temples and some artifacts. Wiang Kum Kam, just five kilometres from downtown, also needs another restoration as it was damaged by flood that hit Chiang Mai in August this year.

The next stop is the house of a princess of the northern Lanna Kingdom, Chao Dara Rasmi, one of the favourite consorts of King Chulalongkorn, or King Rama V. The half wooden structure is a cross-over between Thai and Western architecture and has been turned into a museum.

A guide there said Chao Dara Rasmi was the King's only wife who wore her hair long, despite short locks being the trend among women at the time - mid-Ayutthaya period.

Chao Dara Rasmi spent almost half her life in the court of King Chulalongkorn after moving to Bangkok at the age of 13 with her father, Phra Chao Indavijayanonda, the seventh king of Chiang Mai.

Four years after the demise of King Rama V, she moved back to Chiang Mai and brought a 76-rai plot on which she built the Daraphirom Palace. She was one of the pioneers of modern farming in Thailand and played a key role in the merger of Lanna Kingdom with Siam.

She spent the last 15 years of her life working to improve the lot of northern people. She passed away in 1947 at the age of 60. Her descendent, Chao Lao Kaew, inherited the palace and sold it to Chulalongkorn University, which runs the museum we see today.

The museum in Mae Rim District is still in good condition and showcases her personal belongings, favourite musical instruments, clothes and household items. The bathroom has a large tub and wash basin. Entrance fee is 50 baht for foreigners and 20 baht for Thais. No photographs are allowed.

The next cultural stop is Wat Rong Khun in Chiang Rai. Construction of the temple boasting Thai-Gothic architecture began in 1997. It's a self-financed initiative of national artist Chalermchai Kositphipat who has already spent 40 million baht to build this gem of a marvel 13 kilometres south of downtown.

Chalermchai raises money selling souvenirs, books, postcards and his paintings. He also welcomes donations as the temple which is only 60 percent complete.

Chiang Rai is also famous for Phra That Doi Tung which houses a sacred relic of Lord Buddha, the Royal Villa and the Princess Mother Commemorative Hall, Pha That Doi Wao or the Scorpion Mountain Pagoda in Mae Sai near the border with Burma.

The last stop is where the sacred Emerald Buddha statue was found in 1386 at Wat Phra Kaew in Wiang sub-district of amphur Muang. A mural on one of the temple walls says the statue was sculpted in India circa 43 AD after which it found its way to Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Ayutthaya. The statue changed hands several times until 1386 when Phra Chao Mahaphrom of Chiang Rai constructed a pagoda at Wat Pa-yeah to house the statue.

In 1434, the pagoda was struck by lightning but the statue miraculously was not damaged. From 1553-1778 it was moved to Vientiane, Laos, before King Rama I brought it to Bangkok where it has remained ever since.
Bangkok Post December 05 www.bangkokpost.com