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Around Nan on two wheels The northern province is blessed with a charming capital filled with history and Lanna grace. For cyclists, Nan province way up north is a real charmer. It takes a couple of days to explore the city itself, with its appealing heritage and the lure of its community network, but there is much more to investigate, from tranquil temples, a national museum and the residences of Lanna royalty to the quaint old homes of regular folk.
And all these attractions are found with surprising ease - no map or guidebook needed (though some fine ones are on offer). Nan is 668 kilometres north of Bangkok, far enough that people seem to think you need a strong determination to trek this far. That's not just because Nan is a long way up (and at times a long way off) the road, but because that road snakes along mountains, forcing drivers to slow down for safety's sake. People visit Nan because of its reputation as the home of unspoiled cultural and natural treasures. Adventurous types usually opt for stays in Doi Phu Ka National Park or beside the Wa River, which is popular for whitewater rafting. Those who prefer immersing themselves in culture head for downtown Nan, which recently became only the second place in the country designated for cultural preservation, after Bangkok's Rattanakosin Island. But almost everyone finds their way to a dinner table using Sarakadee's "Nai Rob Roo", an informative and reliable series. Others prefer to browse websites. But we've got our bikes and we're shunning all offers of assistance. The night before our departure, though, we pick the brain of a friend who moved to Nan to open a small coffeeshop and restaurant called Hot Bread. He recommends the Nan Fa Hotel - the oldest hotel in town and mostly made of teak. On arrival we find the city nestled along the Nan River. The local people descended from the Lan Chang of present-day Laos. Their forebears settled about 700 years ago in what is now Pua district, which is rich in rock-salt deposits, then gradually moved south to the fertile Nan River basin. The original city was on the hill where Phra Tha Cha Hang is now. A highland drought forced Phya Pha Kong, the son of Nan's founder Phya Karn Muang, to move the city here, on the west bank of the river. The hotel is on Sumon Dhevaraj Road, between luxurious new inns and a bank. The Nan Fa, in contrast, has only 13 air-conditioned rooms, ranging in price from Bt350 to Bt450. "This hotel is more than 80 years old," says general manager Somneuk Rachasing, pointing at an old picture on the wall of the Chinese owners. "I came here to manage the place years ago, renting the building from them." After a short rest in our comfortable, clean, TV-equipped room, we head off on our bikes to a tourist information centre near the province's most famous attraction, Wat Phumin. That's what we should see first, we're told, and then Wat Chang Kham and the National Museum, all three around the same intersection, followed by other nearby temples and the old Lanna royal residences. All attractions have volunteer guides on the weekends, who are full of interesting stories. Wat Phumin was built by King Jethabudbhromin in 1596, with a quadruple-portico ubosot and viharn. The main Buddha images are four statues with their backs to one another in the main hall, facing the four directions. The temple's wooden doors are delicately carved in splendid designs by Lanna artisans. Wat Phumin underwent a major restoration in 1867, when it's believed its ancient murals were commissioned. Rendered in the Thai Lu ethnic style and highly valued, they depict legends about Lord Buddha and the local way of life, including native attire, weaving and even foreign trade. After more than an hour spent admiring the Lanna murals, we walk across the road to Wat Chang Kham Wora Viharn to see the city's most famous pagoda, and there a group of junior volunteers approach us with an offer of guided history. The temple was built in 1406 by the then-ruler of Nan, Phya Phu Keng. Originally called Wat Luang Klang Wieng, it got its present name from the 24 elephants guarding its Sukhothai-style pagoda, Phra That Luang. Arrayed around the pagoda's base, the elephants are in the protective stance that suggests the term chang kham. Elsewhere there's a marvellous pulpit in the shape of a Busabok, a revered golden Buddha image - Phra Nanthaburi Sri Sakayamuni - and a large scripture hall. As we stroll about, our noses delight to the scent from the blooms of Indian cork trees. After lunch at Hot Bread, we're off to visit the town's one and only silversmith, who makes elegant utensils once widely used in the past, such as ceremonial bowls and ladles, betel boxes and footed trays. |