|
|
Great escape The sun rose behind thick dark clouds hanging over the vast lake created by the building of Sirikit Dam in Uttaradit. Raft houses near the dam's edge turned off their yellow lights. There was complete silence except for the chirping of birds, humming of insects and croaking of frogs as if they were begging for rain. The leaves of tress were still damp with dew as dawn's first light filtered through the hills baring the beautiful forest cover of Lamnam Nan National Park. "It's very peaceful here," said our photographer friend as he set out capturing the scene on his camera. The park didn't have many visitors probably due to its low profile. But it has unique points of interest for those who seek a quiet holiday. The park is an ideal place where you can pitch your hammock under a tree and lie down, read a book or enjoy watching birds. The park also has nature trails fit for students. "We haven't made any conscious attempt to promote this park so far, but after the rainy season is over and the bungalows that we have here are renovated, we might move in that direction," said a park officer. Uttaradit recently suffered severe flooding, but the park and its headquarters escaped damage. The park's name "Lamnam Nan" can be misleading - visitors may be tempted to think that it's part of Nan, a neighbouring province - but they can rest assured it's in Uttaradit, and its headquarters about 10 kilometres from the gate of Sirikit Dam is connected by Highway 1045. The park has an area of 999 square kilometres (624,468 rai) and also straddles part of Phrae Province. Phu Pa Ya Pho is its highest peak rising 1,350 metres above sea level and offering a panoramic view of the park and the dam. The topography comprises rugged mountains, evergreen forests full of deciduous trees, dipterocarps and savannah. It is home to several forms of wildlife, including the serow and Rana blythii, the largest species of frog in Thailand, and 200 species of birds. May to October is the low season when monsoon rains lash the province, but come November the park and its mountains are shrouded in mist and cool wind that attract visitors in big numbers. February to May it is hot and humid. The park only has one restaurant, Somsri, which also offers rafting service. We hired a long-tailed boat for an hour-long ride to Prathat Klangnam, a white stupa that houses a relic of Buddha, and then to a fishing village. "The stupa was here long before the dam was built," said the boatman. However, it has no monks in residence, although it still attracts local people who come to pay their respects. The stupa is being renovated. Under construction are a new building that will house Buddha images and salas with roof cover where tourists can stop for rest and admire the lake scenery. They are slated for completion next month after which a religious ceremony will be held. It is supposed to be a big event. From the stupa we proceeded to a village that runs a fishery project launched in 1999 on the initiative of Her Majesty to help improve the livelihood of local people. The project is a collaboration between the army and local people who also offer homestay to visiting tourists for a nominal cost of 150 baht per night, including breakfast. The project envisages breeding the Nile tilapia fish and raising them to a sufficient size - until they weigh at least a kilogramme - for sale to the army. "It is not a bad business. We earn enough to raise our families. However, only 10 families are joining the project," said the army personnel on duty. Feeding fish no wonder is one of the tourist activities in this village. Completed in 1972, Sirikit Dam is the largest earthen dam in Thailand. It stands on Nan River as it runs through the Pha Saom mountains in Tha Pla District of Uttaradit. Nan River is one of the four sources of water of Chao Phraya River. It is the the longest river in Thailand running 615 kilometres through Nan, Uttaradit, Phitsanulok and Phichit before merging with the Yom River in Nakhon Sawan. The dam has a capacity to store 13,130 million cubic metres and generate 375,000 kilowatts of electricity. Around the dam there are four raft houses capable of accommodating two to six people. But if it is rainy season, better stay on land because even slight wind or rain can make a night in raft house a fairly wobbly experience, like riding on high seas. There are also facilities for golfing, tennis, biking, kayaking and a restaurant that has a swimming pool with a side pool for kids. There are various kinds of fish in the lake, one of them being the soldier river barb or Pla Takok that can weigh more than 10 kilogrammes. It tastes best when grilled with salt but it has a lot of bones, said Num a restaurant staffer. Sometimes he and his friends take a boat and go catching fish in the middle of the lake. Visitors can hire boats at Ban Tha Rua, a fish market, some 10 kilometres from the park. Also available there are rafting tours complete with bait and related fishing gear and overnight accommodation around the dam. Somboon, who runs a rafting set-up that goes by the name Lung Chang, offers overnight accommodation as well as karaoke music. Karaoke singing is very popular among Thai visitors. "They come here in groups and stay overnight. Some enjoy fishing but most people indulge in crooning their favourite songs. We provide karaoke system in every raft house," he said and invited us to come back in winter when it is more pleasant. MORE INFO How to get there Uttaradit is 491 kilometres from Bangkok. From Bangkok take Highway 1 and move on to Highway 32 in Ayutthaya and drive to Nakhon Sawan. There take the 117 to Phitsanulok, then switch to Highway 11 and drive on to Uttaradit. By train: Trains leave Bangkok's Hua Lamphong railway station daily for Uttaradit. Check out the timetable at http://www.railway.co.th or call 1690 and 02-223-7010. By bus: There is a choice of ordinary and air-conditioned buses that leave Morchit bus terminal at regular intervals daily. For timetable, visit its web site at http://www.transport.co.th or call 02-576-5599. Arriving in Muang District of Uttaradit, take Highway 1045 (Uttaradit - Sirikit Dam). Drive past Ruam Chit junction on the way to Ban Huay Charoen until you see the sign "Lamnam Nan National Park". Keep driving on the unpaved road for about four kilometres and you will reach to the park's headquarters. For more information, visit http://www.dnp.go.th or call 055-419-236. To go to Sirikit dam ( http://www.sirikitdam.egat.com , tel: 055-461-140-3), use the same highway and drive for 10 kilometres. To go to Ban Tha Rua, drive back to Ruam Chit junction and take the 1163. |