It's that time of the year when Bangkok residents dust off their winter woollies and plan a trip north. The mercury slipped a few bars last week in the Chiang Rai valley, causing evening shivers and email alerts from northern residents to Bangkokians warning them to prepare for a nip in the air.
Chiang Rai's popularity soars in December through to January solely on its ability to deliver goose pimples. For most of the year the valley's hotel business lags behind neighbouring Chiang Mai Province, which attracts the lion's share of tourism revenue in the northern region. Fortunes change dramatically as the temperatures drop. Last week, optimism was running high in Chiang Rai's tourism circles as the thermometers registered 14 degrees Centigrade and a reassuring six degrees on hilltops. This would have been depressing for a beach resort, but here tourists donning winter woollies is a sight for sore eyes. It's the stuff that fills wallets if you own a stall in the night bazaar or run a pub on the main street.
Thai tourists wander through the maze of shopping lanes in oversized jumpers. They almost wobble under the weight of wool as they seek out hilltribe hats, gloves and scarfs to add to their winter wardrobe. Foreign tourists who arrive in luxury tour buses for their two-day sojourn in the far North looked bemused at the winter layers. It just can't be that cold?
Well, it can if you are a Bangkokian born and bred in a hothouse. Chiang Rai in December is a couple of notches lower than the capital's air-conditioned office climate that hovers around 25 degrees C year-round.
A healthy dose of fresh air and cool temperatures are probably not enough for tourism investors who have always shunned Chiang Rai as a backwater. Even backpackers complain over a beer that they are bored to tears after a day in the town. There's a mini Patpong hiding behind a row of shophouses, where the locals outnumber the tourists 10 to one. An Italian restaurant sells a pizza for Bt140 and is packed nightly while Boi's is the single expatriate pub run by a Dutchman and his girlfriend. Across the street, the town's magnet, known as the Night Bazaar, draws every tourist resident in 20 miles to a veritable rabbit warren of shops and stalls.
So let me share another reason for visiting Chiang Rai this December. You want to get healthy or perhaps try a different style of holiday that requires more input than sitting in a car or tour bus. Perhaps it's time to dust off those stubborn calories that refuse to dissipate at the expensive health club. Or you are about to buy your child the first bicycle. Perhaps a better idea is to buy two and head to Chiang Rai.
It's not featured in any of Tourism Authority of Thailand's brochures, but this far North province is probably one of the best places to enjoy an outdoor family vacation. I am avid cyclist so I will stick with the hobby I know. Chiang Rai is ideal for cyclists particularly in the cool season when they can explore at will deserted country lanes that weave around orchards and villages.
Of course, you have to pack your cycle and fly it to Chiang Rai. There are a few logistic problems but if you go to a cycle shop they will happily box your bike for 50 baht guaranteeing it will arrive at the destination in one piece. Usually a cycle weighs in at around 12 kg in a box, which is well within the 20 kg allowance in economy class. In 20 trips flying THAI, the airline managed to buckle my wheel just once. A motorcycle shop took the wobble out for just Bt20.
Chiang Rai hotels in the town centre sell rooms at around Bt1,400. Those outside the town or on the river itself charge Bt3,000-4,000 a room including breakfast. Either book through a local travel agent or try the hotel websites.
Due to its location close to the Night Bazaar and the friendly Boi's Pub, the Wiang Inn at Bt1,400 including breakfast was my choice booked through a travel agency. From here it is possible to explore all the town's attractions on a cycle including the Rae Mae Fah Luang, home to a very credible teak museum on the outskirts of the town.
Technically once you have checked into the city hotel, your cycle will eliminate motorised transport - minibus tours, tuk-tuks or car rental.
As for the routes and navigation, local knowledge could be tapped by buying a round of draft beers at Boi's Pub although a Bt199 investment in the CD Road Map of Thailand would also do the trick.
Sold by Thinknet, the CD map allows you to zoom to a maximum scale of 1:50,000, which shows all the roads and trails in and around Chiang Rai. By clicking on the measuring icon it is possible to estimate ride distances quite accurately. On a trip of over 100 km the devise was out by just two kilometres.
Families could safely ride through Chiang Rai to the Rai Mae Fah Luang Foundation where its parkland, lakes and restaurant provide a rewarding respite.
There are more ambitious rides that follow the Mae Nam Kok upstream to the famous elephant camp on the riverbank and nearby Karen villages. The road crosses some steep hills but provides panoramic views of the river and valley. To the north of Chiang Rai, the road to Mae Sai, Doi Tung beckons riders who need the challenge of switchback bends that climb through the mist to the former palace of HRH the Princess Mother.
Finally to the east of town there are country lanes that pass the Santiburi Golf course and lead you to the rolling hills of Phaya Mengrai district. Here there are again some steep climbs to challenge serious riders. It is possible to plan a variety of trips of 50-120 km to match fitness levels all easily concluded during the day in relatively cool conditions.
Chiang Rai is still very much part of "Unseen Thailand" not through a lack of publicity, but rather because the promotions have been off target. This far northern valley is a natural base for outdoors and sports enthusiasts who are looking for a challenge and the opportunity to enjoy their favourite hobby. Until that point is recognised Chiang Rai will always play second fiddle to its neighbours.
Bangkok Post December 2005 www.bangkokpost.com
