Chiang Mai has been transformed from the hushed days a decade or two ago when temple-studded streets lured tourists content to be entranced by their glitter during strolls from their guesthouses by the Ping River.
The double-edged sword of progress has brought with it congested traffic, over-development and day spas sprouting on every second corner. On the other hand, it's delivered charming hotels, rejuvenated the fading temples and created a base for a wellspring of Thai-inspired arts and crafts, evident in a vast array of shops hawking gorgeous and offbeat items.
Sometimes one needs a little taste and loveliness. In Chiang Mai, that means tossing your backpack (if you're splurging) or your wheelie-bag (if you're a global-trotting flashpacker) at Tamarind Village . Its low-rise, whitewashed rooms built around a 320-year-old tamarind tree were what Chiang Mai deserved all along: a beautiful, low-impact and unobtrusive place from which to enjoy the sights.
Tamarind Village in fact was a practice run for its big and more elegant sister, the more swish and fancy Rachamankha which opened just last year. The 25-room hotel's specifications match a famed temple outside Chiang Mai, with Chinese and Zen touches, lending it a tranquil and other-world quality unmatched elsewhere in Thailand's second city. Peppered with antique treasures it's a treat just to browse the grounds here. But do stay if you can, and revel in the fine service and peacefulness.
When you venture outside, goodies await. The temples beckon, of course. Enjoy them. Immerse yourself in their beauty. And when you're done, get a soothing massage at one of the better quality spas jostling for space with the yoga studios and the vegetarian cafes and the candle shops. Oasis Spa _ just down the road from Rachamankha, conveniently enough _ offers an array of packages in private wooden villas with outdoor showers and flowers in all the right places.
We tried the scrub, aromatherapy massage and cucumber facial deal (2,700 baht++) which was two and a half hours of splendid indulgence. While the service was impeccable and the treatments professional, we weren't asked what fragrance we wanted in the massage oil _ a pet peeve of mine when aromatherapy is supposed to be tailored to the individual.
Refreshed post-spa, the shops now await. Forget the relentless offerings of indigo-died homespun cotton shirts and stock silk scarves of yesteryear, although you can certainly still nose around and find these. Chiang Mai has turned into an exciting centre for cutting-edge Thai-inspired designs.
For upper-end bargain-hunting, Nimmanhaemin Road 's Soi 1 is the place to start. Wit's focuses on ceramics with attitude and in particular is worth a browse for something truly special. But stick your nose in all the shops along here and you're bound to be delighted with one find or another. And a 10-minute walk away on Soi 9 is Wawee's, a great wi-fi coffee shop serving up northern Thai brews with delicious homemade desserts _ try the banana cream torte.
Do also check out Living Space, set in a restored teak house and filled with an array of stunning items ranging from cheerfully coloured lacquerware to exquisite napkin rings. They also make-to-order super-soft lambskin-leather shoulder bags, a steal at 4,500 baht. Burgandy with a hot-pink lining? Turquoise with an orange accent? Take your pick.
Ginger is another must-see, located next to a fabulously restored house converted into a restaurant offering contemporary cuisine with a bit of an Asian twist. Sip a cocktail here before dinner and pop into the shop to browse their eclectic array of jewellery, bags, clothes and furniture, with a Chinese accent. We have it on good authority that their restored Chinese furniture is well-priced.
Watch out for the smaller items though _ one Chinese tea mug (with a clever removable ceramic strainer) stole my heart but I resisted it at 790 baht. At the walking market later that night _ make sure you're in Chiang Mai for a Sunday night so you don't miss this weekly event _ I scored one seemingly exactly the same for 160 baht. But that's the joy of the hunt, isn't it?
