Travel news - destinations in south Thailand

Phuket... the other side

The legacy of tin miners and early European settlers is still visible in Pearl of the Andaman

Strolling along Thalang Road, I could feel the Sino-Portuguese architecture of buildings there had a story to tell about Phuket. I have visited the Pearl of the Andaman, as Phuket is also known, several times, but this time I was there specifically to catch a piece of its early history, ethnic and religious diversity.

I chose Thalang Road as the starting point because it features rows of shops and houses built by Malaysian and Singaporean merchants over a century ago whose style and architecture radiate strong European, and particularly Portuguese, influence.

It was early morning when I set out, chaperoned by a local guide.

Business was brisk as usual with shops on either side of the road selling everything from food and clothes to electrical appliances. The only eyesore were electric cables hanging from power poles at regular intervals.

I found the shops and houses, mostly two-storey buildings, still in mint condition thanks to regular repair and renovation by their owners. Beneath the arches looming over sidewalks, I found myself transported briefly to the 18th century. There's an unmistakably European feel to the road, but on closer examination the Chinese bit asserted itself forcefully via the writings and fretwork carving on businesses and households, highlighting Phuket's cultural diversity and its link to the past.

The Chinese writings date back to turn of the 20th century when Thalang Road was the meeting point for Chinese merchants who came there to trade and in their free time played mah-jong, a game where you match pairs of tiles. The numerous Chinese shrines and Hokkien food shops you see in Phuket today are a legacy of those early settlers. One of the oldest and most popular Hokkien restaurants is Raan-jee-nguat located near the intersection of Yaowarat Road. It serves delectable family recipes that have passed down the generation.

These settlers migrated from Penang where they worked in tin mines run by Europeans. Looking for greener pastures, they settled in Phuket, which was rich in tin ores, and built houses that were a fusion of Chinese and European architecture. Today, they are national treasures "that must be preserved for the coming generations and visiting tourists", my guide said. I proceeded to capture that part of history through my lens.

While Sino-Portuguese houses can be found throughout Phuket town, less visible are privately owned mansions. So I proceeded to Chin Pracha House, an imposing property in the centre of town and only a short walk from Thalang Road. Built in 1907 by Phra Bhitak Chinpracha, a Phuket-born Chinese merchant who owned several tin mines, I found it to be a virtual museum containing everything from family history and photos to the type of bedding and attire worn in those days.

Being a wealthy merchant, he furnished the mansion lavishly importing furniture from Holland, China, Italy and Malaysia to complement its Sino-Portuguese architecture. I felt a sense of loss at not being able to follow the history behind some of the family heirlooms on display, as no written information is offered.

Another important component of Phuket's cultural diversity are Muslims who constitute 35 percent of its population. They are predominantly fishermen who farm the mud flats for sea shells and raise prawns, although a growing number can be seen working on merchant and cruise ships these days.

Old-timers in Phuket love to regale visitors with the legend of Muslim Princess Mahsuri dating back to the time when the Malaysian island of Langkawi was remote and inconspicuous, not the tourist hub we know it today. Princess Mahsuri was accused by her husband of infidelity and was sentenced to death. Before dying, after her pleas of innocence were ignored, she placed the island under curse that would last seven generations. After her death, Mahsuri's repentant husband and son moved to Phuket and settled down here.

The narrator was a Muslim elder by the name of Muhammad. After that the conversation shifted to the local cuisine. Among the local favourites are "Gaeng Som", garlic and spicy fish soup, and roti, the Indian bread and a variety of curries.

He recommended me the Abdul Restaurant on Thalang Road. It's 100-year-old family business run by Abdul Mohd. The restaurant serves a fusion of Indian and Thai food. Fish and beef curries are the favoured dishes, while the roti with different fillings are the recommended appetisers.

My next and last stop for the day were the "Chao Ley", or the sea gypsies of Thailand who live on Rawai and Sirey islands. I headed for the village of Laem Tuk Kae, which had taken a direct hit from the tsunami last December, and saw new houses built in neat rows and villagers going about their daily chores. So life had apparently returned to normal.

They are the oldest inhabitants of Thailand's Andaman coast. As I arrived at Laem Tuk Kae, some of the villagers were preparing to go out to sea. They were being blessed in a traditional send-off ritual. I saw stalls selling necklaces and other ornaments made from sea shells.

Proud of their lineage, they have left their marks in caves along Phangnga Bay. They contain paintings and objects made from sea shells that date back to pre-historic times. One of them, located off Phangnga-Krabi Highway, is the Skull Cave which can be accessed by a short boat ride along a canal surrounded by mangroves.

It was sunset by the time I left Laem Tuk Kae, vowing to return there one day. I had felt warm in the company of gypsies, who treated me as if I was part of their family.

"Next time you are here come stay and drink with us. We have plenty of legends and stories to tell you which we haven't shared with anyone else," said one of them.

So you see, Phuket is more than sun and sandy beaches; it's full of intrigues and mystery waiting to be explored.

MORE INFO

Getting around Phuket

Motorbikes: Motorcycle taxis are the fastest and cheapest mode of transport around downtown Phuket.

Bus/tuk- tuks: All buses (and songthaew) run in a looping route connecting virtually all the major points in Phuket. Tuk-tuks abound in Patong and Phuket town. However, travelling to faraway parts of the island visitors are advised to negotiate a round-trip because finding a transport in those areas is not always easy.

Car rental: Cars and jeeps are available at points around the island. A valid driver's license is a necessary pre-requisite.

Helicopter tours: For aerial tours contact the Southern Flying Group (076-247-237-9) and Southern Helicopter Service (076-216-389).

Activities:

Phuket is famous for its golf courses, vibrant nightlife, sailing, sight-seeing and a spate of other activities that attracts visitors from all corners of the globe.

Horseback riding and mountain biking are also available. Phuket is also popular for herbal sauna and Thai massage.

Muay Thai kick boxing bouts are held every Friday evening. The Monkey School at Chalong holds shows daily at 11am, and 2pm and 4pm, except Friday.

Other than those there are also snake farms which hold cobra shows along Chalong and Patong beaches.
Bangkok Post 24 August 2005 www.bangkokpost.com