We'll start our journey from Pathiu Town, Chumphon Province. From there, take Highway 3201 to Wat Don Takhien and then take Rural Highway 4004 along the coast (you can't see the sea at this point, though - the trees are pretty dense). Soon the bridge that goes over Khlong Bang Son, Point A1, will come into sight.
Continue on the 4004 for less than four and a half kilometres and you'll find the beach of Bo Mao Bay. From the bay, there're a couple of points where the road forks, just make sure you stay on the 4004 until you get to Ban Bang Chak where the road now becomes Highway 3253. Cling to the shoreline and after 10 kilometres or so you'll reach Ban Thung Maha. Now get on Rural Highway 4015 and drive up north.
Three kilometres and a half along the 4015, you'll find yourself at an intersection. Turn right towards Tham Thong. Almost eight kilometres from the intersection, you'll reach the Tham Thong viewpoint and the big statue of the Kuan Yin Goddess. Four and a half kilometres from the statue, the 4015 will start to run very close to the sea. In no time, you'll notice the sand dunes. Yes, those dunes of Ban Nam Phu which grace today's front page!
The beach in this area is a quiet, unspoilt stretch. There's no resorts or communities on either side of the road, just a wooded plot which is a private development project of His Majesty the King.
Six kilometres up the 4015 from the sand dunes is a T-intersection. The road to the left leads to Phetchakasem Highway while the one to the right not only takes you to Kasetsart University's Sithiporn Kridakara Research Station (see the sand dune story) and Bang Berd but also lets you continue along the coastline. Yes, turn left.
Oh, by the way, now you're about to leave the boundary of Chumphon Province and enter Prachuap Khiri Khan Province.
From Bang Berd take the Rural Highway 1015. After almost 15 kilometres, you'll reach a big intersection where the 1015 meets with 3411, 3497 and 3374. Turn right onto the 3374 - it will take you to the town of Bang Saphan.
From Bang Saphan, follow the road signs that say "to the seaside" and you'll reach Mae Ram Phueng Beach. Continue along the beach road, then on to Ao Bo Thong Lang and then on to Ban Krut. (Remember these names and you won't get lost. By the way, between Ao Bo Thong Lang and Ban Krut, you'll run into a few T-intersections. The trick is to always turn right and stay close to the sea.)
From Khao Thong Chai, the hill that stands at the northern end of Ban Krut and is today's Point F, the quickest way to get to Phetchakasem Highway is via Rural Highway 1029.
Bangkok Post November 2005 www.bangkokpost.com
