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Distant yes, but not aloof Khao Lak is enjoying a revival. A booming tourist destination in Takua Pa district of Phangnga Province on the Andaman coast, it faced the mammoth task of restoring its tourism industry after being battered by the deadly tsunami in 2004. Two and a half years on, it is showing signs of a vitality reminiscent of its pre-tsunami days. On a recent visit I found that Khao Lak had made an amazing recovery and its endless beaches were looking as lovely as ever. A stroll on Bang Niang Beach brought back fond memories of my first visit in 2003. I recall being enchanted by the sheer beauty of white sandy beaches and rainforest that converged into the emerald sea, and friendliness of the islanders and their unique charm. Like the rest of the country, I was saddened by the calamity that had befallen Khao Lak just when it had started making a mark among foreign tourists. I was jolted from my reverie by one of the most enchanting sunsets I had seen in years. Gentle waves brushed my legs and I sensed a feeling of well-being envelope me. A row of freshly built resorts, children frolicking along the Andaman coastline ringed by a national forest park and locals going about their business as usual put a smile on my face. Yes, Khao Lak is back on its feet again. The loss of family and friends to killer waves is still evident on the faces of Takua Pa residents but what I found admirable was their resolution to get along with their lives. Somchai, a driver for a four-star resort on Bang Niang who lost his loved ones to the tsunami, said: "Khao Lak was hardest hit by the tsunami but life has to go on. The dead would probably want us to continue with our lives. Our morale is good and we are confident tourists will return in their usual numbers. The local economy made up of hotels, dive shops and restaurants is dependent on them." A drive around Khao Lak is one way to enjoy its spectacular scenery. The coast, set against a background of casuarina pines which in turn gives way to lush green palm groves interspersed with lakes, rubber and coconut plantations, looks like retouched pieces of modern art. The regulation of keeping umbrellas and chairs at least 50 metres from the shoreline is still strictly enforced, while no beer bars are allowed to operate in the area to set it apart from neighbouring Phuket. Khao Lak boasts several natural attractions and among them is the four-tiered Lampi Waterfall in Khao Lampi-Haad Thaymuang National Park that I visited on this trip. The waterfall has a pool at its base that is suitable for swimming. The 72-sq-km park was established in 1986. Its topography is interesting: it has a mountain area called Khao Lampi, and a 14-km-long beach stretch lined by casuarinas called Haad Thai Muang. The park supports a diversity of plants and wildlife, including mangroves and water pits that are remnants of tin mines long closed. Fishing aside, park residents cultivate coconut. Haad Thai Muang is six kilometres from Thai Muang town. I decided to check out the trail leading to the top of Lampi Waterfall. The well structured terrain made it possible to enjoy several reptiles and amphibians inhabiting the area. I didn't break much sweat hiking up the three levels where visitors can enjoy the waterfall from close. After exploring the forest terrain, I headed to Talad Takua Pa for a better understanding of Khao Lak's past. Best explored on foot, it has some of the most engaging Sino-Portuguese style houses from the last century, which unfortunately look in pathetic shape due to neglect. The most happening place in town is a 40-year-old coffee house run by Phumchai Tantaleechat. Famous for its freshly brewed coffee and Chinese dumplings, Kopi Gohmin sits on Si Takua Pa Road. Patrons frequent the place to catch up on the latest gossip in town. Phumchai is a second-generation Hokchew Chinese. "Well, as you can see our community is made up of old people and children. Our youths prefer to work in town. Yes, we get a steady flow of tourists but I am not in support of homestay the authorities are trying to sell us. We're a close-knit community and I would like to see it stay that way." Phumchai said Takua Pa was once part of an ancient trade route that extended from India to China. Merchandise from India travelled in boats across the Andaman Sea to Takua Pa, after which it was moved by elephants through jungles and mountains to Surat Thani, and then across the South China Sea. Takua Pa has been a major tin producer for centuries, said Phumchai. As a child he recalls stories his parents told him about Chinese merchants entering the jungles to dig for tin. Portuguese galleons also came in force to purchase tin and ivory. Descendants of early Chinese tin miners live in the area to this day, said Phumchai. Sino-Portuguese style houses and the Chao Poh Kwan-Oo shrine are poignant reminders of the town's forebearers. The Chinese made a huge impact on the daily life in Takua Pa in those days and the fruits of their labour was enjoyed by the generations that followed. Chinese New Year and the annual Vegetarian Festival are celebrated here with much gusto. From the coffee house I set off for a photo shoot around town before heading to Sangnea Canal for a boat ride through a mangrove. I secured myself firmly in front of a two-seater inflatable helmed by a local fisherman. He said the mangrove was home to a number of interesting animals and plants. We cut through a dense passage obscured by trees and their twisted roots, some of which hung from branches like stalks and anchored the trees against the raging current, while the finer ones, fibrous in nature, dug into the soft soil to provide trees with much-needed nutrients. I spotted snakes and other reptiles along the route. It was mid-afternoon when my oarsman pointed to me a green snake, nicely camouflaged atop a banyan tree, lazing just a few metres above my head. As I tried to capture it on my camera, briefly the prospect of the creature falling into our boat or my lap came to my mind and it sent shivers down my spine. The rest of the ride through the natural mangrove vegetation was both scenic and relaxing, but with rain clouds gathering we knew it was time to call it a day. MORE INFO Khao Lak is about 33 kilometres south of Takua Pa town on Route 4 or an hour's drive from Phuket Airport. Car Hire a car in Phuket and drive north over Sarasin Bridge along Route 402. Keep heading north and take Route 4 along the west coast. Drive past the towns of Kok Kloy and Thai Muang to Khao Lak. Bus There is regular bus service between Bangkok and Phangnga. Travel time is about 12 hours either way. Both air-conditioned and non air-conditioned buses depart Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal at regular intervals daily. In Phangnga, take the buses plying the Tai Muang-Takua Pa route. Most of them stop at Khao Lak Beach. For more information call the Southern Bus Terminal at 02-435-1199 to 200 or the bus terminal in Phangnga at 076-412-300, 076-412-014; Train From Bangkok catch the train to Surat Thani and from there continue to Phangnga town by bus which takes about two hours. For more information, call Hua Lamphong railway station at 02-223-1690, 02-223-7010 and 02-223-7020 Air There are no direct flights to Khao Lak. You have fly to Phuket first and then take a bus or taxi to Khao Lak. Many airlines connect Bangkok and Phuket daily. From Phuket you can take a bus or rent a car to Khao Lak; the distance is about 58 kilometres. Tours Eco Khaolak Adventure Ltd offers tours in and around Khao Lak. For more information, call 667-648-558 to 67, 086-595-417 to 3 or fax 667-648-558/7; |