The twin seaside destinations of Hua Hin and Cha-am, keen to preserve their identity, try to strike a balance between rising tourist traffic and the fallout therefrom.
Since Hua Hin and Cha-am are now established destinations on the international tourist map, the question that begs asking is will they follow the lead of other seaside resorts around the country, or pace themselves in a way that will enable them to retain the pristine charms that have endeared them to the hearts of the royalty and the public alike.
The pace of development in the twin beachside destinations _ about three hours drive south of Bangkok _ have not gone unnoticed and the local authorities, afraid that things could just get out of hand if allowed to grow unchecked, are already taking the first steps to ensure they lose none of the allure to the rising tide of tourists.
Thai and foreign tourists are drawn to Hua Hin and Cha-am because of their white sandy beaches and green fairways, not to mention the slow easy-going lifestyle, that make for a perfect weekend outing. Together they have 9,000 rooms to offer guests.
Silachai Surai, director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand's (TAT) Central Region II office, has great plans for Hua Hin and Cha-am.
"When we are speaking of Hua Hin, it also includes Cha-am. The two are inseparable. Hua Hin is known as a quiet family holiday destination. Over the past few years, tourist facilities have improved and now it can cater to upscale tourists. Cha-am, on the other hand, can serve all range of travellers," he said.
"If Hua Hin has to change, so it be. However, its character and reputation has to be preserved," he added.
Last year Cha-am received 3.3 million visitors, up 2.3 percent over 2003, while Hua Hin played host to two million of which 1.6 million were Thai tourists, a rise of 5.17 percent over the same period. The TAT office in cooperation with Hua Hin-Cha-am Tourist Business Association devised incentive packages that pulled in travellers from all parts of the country, particularly from the MICE segment.
"It is also a nice way to fill up rooms during low season," Mr Silachai noted.
Cha-am is building up its meetings and convention infrastructure. The Dusit Resort and Polo Club is building a convention facility capable of accommodating 1,000 people, while the Regent-Cha-am has already renovated and expanded its facility. It can now take in 3,000 people.
Both Cha-am and Hua Hin have established themselves as quality golf and spa destinations overseas. Golfers from Europe, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Japan can be seen teeing off on their fairways. Spa travellers are also coming in increasing numbers. Both are high-yield segments. To expand its awareness overseas, local hotels have formed the Hua Hin Hoteliers' Club. It publicises various cultural and sporting activities that are now part of the international travel calendar, like the Hua Hin Jazz Festival held recently. It enlivened tourism in the area.
The club has organised other such activities over the years that have become annual events, like the walk-a-thon, marathon and mountain biking competitions. In the same vein, the Sofitel Central last year organised the Hua Hin Vintage Car Rally, while the Anantara played host to the King's Cup elephant polo tournament, both the events drawing tremendous response from foreign participants and generating good publicity for Hua Hin and Cha-am.
According to Mr Silachai, air links can play a major role in boosting tourism. But currently, only SGA, a local airline, offers a shuttle service between Hua Hin and Bangkok. It operates three flights daily using Cessna light aircraft which can accommodate a maximum of 12 passengers.
Bangkok Airways used to fly the route but it ceased flights last year after tourism went into a tail spin in the wake of the fallout from bird flu.
To attract more tourists, Hua Hin and Cha-am should have more direct air links, especially with Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong, its major markets, but for that to happen the airstrip in Hua Hin has to be expanded to accommodate bigger aircraft.
Silapan Kamolpramote, the mayor of Hua Hin, dons two hats. On the one hand he has to make sure tourism grows at a healthy rate, on the other his job is to ensure that no damage is done to the local environment and ecology.
He sits on the Hua Hin Preserve Group, a loose public-private sector alliance formed to tackle problems arising from urbanisation, and preserve the town's identity.
To him, the traffic is an immediate priority as major intersections downtown get clogged with vehicles during long weekends or public holidays. Inadequate water supply is a looming problem as Hua Hin does not have its own source of water. Water for local consumption is supplied from a reservoir in Pran Buri. Mr Silapan's office has raised the matter with the Irrigation Department and a solution is expected next year.
His other concern are the beaches. Hua Hin is famous for its white sandy beaches but they have now been invaded by vendors peddling all sort of items from food and beach-chairs to umbrellas that come and go with the tide. If they are allowed to operate unchecked, Hua Hin may meet the same as other beaches frequented by tourists.
"I remember growing up here," he said, adding "there must be a way to balance the way in which local people earn their livelihood and tourists who come to enjoy the sea and clean beaches."
He was responding to complaints from both sides. "I'd like to let them know that if they keep hawking and intruding on public beaches, they can only do it in this life time. Their offspring will not be able to do the same as visitors will stop coming to Hua Hin," he noted.
He wants to tackle the problem in an amicable manner, through consensus and cooperation, and is considering designating a day every week when no vending will be allowed on the beaches.
He said his Hua Hin Preserve Group is discussing ways to regulate growth and new developments. It has launched the "Hua Hin Paradise City" campaign that will run until 2007 and set aside 500 million baht that will be used to beautify Hua Hin by repainting road signs, traffic lights and old buildings, improving landscaping and hygiene, and promulgating laws to regulate construction of new buildings.
Repainting of the five-kilometre strip of Phetkasem Highway from Hua Hin Airport to Chiva-Som health resort has already begun.
Mr Silapan still fondly recalls the time when he was a young lad and Hua Hin a peaceful fishing village of families that had relocated from Phetchaburi. He wants to preserve the atmosphere of bygone days, old houses and boats, the Sahmaw Riang village near the fishing pier, and even the pedal-powered tricycle to lend it a sort of originality that foreign tourists can feel and admire.
The tricycle, once the main mode of transport, is a rare sight on Hua Hin's roads these days, and the ones that are still around look worn out and out of place.
"They look tired and shabby," he said. "They could do with some repainting."
New hotels and resorts
Next year Hua Hin and Cha-am will have 1,000 new rooms bringing the total to more than 10,000, capable of meeting the tastes and preferences of a diverse range of travellers.
Most of the accommodations are bungalows or low-rise resorts. Among the ones already there are the Dusit Resort and Polo Club and the Regent Cha-am Beach Resort which was renovated last year, the Sofitel Central which has been there for ever, and several others that have already upgraded their facilities or are in the process of doing it.
Veranda Resort and Spa was Cha-am's first boutique resort. The Fisherman, a Fraser-managed property is another, isolated, and located on Chao Sam Ran beach, Phetchaburi. The Radisson Group, Sheraton and Accor, with its 240-room Novotel Thipviman, are all competing for attention in Cha-am.
New small and medium-sized resorts are also appearing in Hua Hin. Homes have been turned into guest houses and bars. Starbucks coffee chain has arrived and so will other brands soon. If you have not been to Hua Hin for a long time, the change is more noticeable. Other boutique resorts include the 18-room Veranda Lodge and Baan Talaydao. The Wora Bura Resort & Spa is building a 70-room facility near Khao Takiab, south of downtown Hua Hin. It is scheduled to open in August.
International hotel chains have also arrived in recent years. Hilton replaced Melia in 2001. The Marriott operates the former Royal Garden Resort. The Hyatt Regency is next to Chivasom, a world-class health resort and spa.
South of Hua Hin is Pran Buri, an emerging resort, more peaceful and less developed. Boutique resorts are rising there too. The Evason took up the former Club Aldiana and has expanded it to the more upscale Evason Hideaway. Further down rise other boutique holiday establishments like the Aleenta, Privacy Beach Resort & Spa, Tanaosri and others.
Even small bungalows are alert to the rising tourist tide and have renovated their facilities to cater a new breed of visitors who like "cool design and elegance".
"No matter how much it costs for a night, there will always be takers," quipped a hotel staff.
