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Evening in Amphawa Only early birds catch the real hustle and bustle of most floating markets, but late risers need not miss out on the experience, with Amphawa's floating market in Samut Songkram province starting much later in the day - towards the early evening. The market might not have the traditional appeal of Damnoen Sadouk floating market, but visitors to Amphawa don't seem to mind, flocking from Bangkok every weekend to reach the floating stalls just an hour before sunset. Though floating markets were traditionally used by local farmers in central Thailand to sell their produce directly to customers, today tourists overshadow the real customers, arriving by the busload to appreciate the old charm and to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the markets. But before dismissing the Amphawa floating market as another tourist trap - or one of the many newly-emerged markets in central Thailand - it should be noted that what makes this market special is that it is actually a revival of the former market here that was a prominent feature of the community 50 years ago. In fact, the marketplace was once one of the major commercial district markets along the Mae Klong river. In the early Rattanakosin period, Amphawa was celebrated as the birthplace of the King Rama II of Thailand and with a local population of prosperous farmers the area has a long-standing reputation as a wealthy district. The area also possesses excellent soil that enables the local orchards and plantations to yield produce such as coconuts, pomelo, lychee and mango, all year round. The natural landscape is dotted with beautiful old traditional Thai-style house hidden behind lychee fruit orchards, many set elegantly by the river, side by side, with a suggestion of a particularly spiritual air added by the countless century-old temples. The Amphawa market itself, sits next to the Amphawa District Office, right by the Mae Klong River. You can also find an array of stalls by the big river along the pedestrian walkway, which eventually leads you out to a canal. A variety of food and goods are available, with local people seeming to enjoy the evening market as much as visitors. In fact you'll find locals and visitors alike vying for the boat-sellers' spicy grilled squid and phad Thai, each simple dish costing between Bt10-Bt20. You can also walk along the riverbank to browse the myriad of delicious morsels being sold from the water. Food can also be ordered to eat on the shore, which is well-equipped with plastic chairs and tables. As well as investigating the floating wares, visitors can walk across the concrete bridge to the other bank's strip of beautifully preserved wooden shophouses. Unlike Damnoen Sadouk's daily spectacle, Amphawa's floating market only opens three days a week, from Friday to Sunday, but there's no need to rush the experience as a number of the traditional Thai houses along both sides of the river also welcome guests to stay overnight due to the area's other after-hours attraction - firefly watching. Boat tours for the firefly watching begin at 7pm and usually last around an hour. There are also a few coffee shops by the canal, as well as gift shops selling postcards. The revival of Amphawa's market was the brainchild of the local municipality who recognised the potential benefits of the re-opening of the market on the local community here. True to their expectations, the idea is already proving a success with sightseers who come to enjoy the home-stay accommodation and firefly watching in Amphawa. It might not be exactly the same as stepping back in time, but the authentic appeal of the market is still apparent, with tourists browsing goods and food alongside local people, who also enjoy the sociable atmosphere - whether they are there to trade, or to purchase. And it's this lively mix and festive atmosphere that has made Amphawa's newly revived market an attraction in its own right. |