Royal retreat Ko Sichang became a familiar name only after King Rama V visited the island over a century ago, although his predecessor King Mongkut (Rama IV) had arrived there earlier. Rama V or King Chulalongkorn noticed that island's residents were strong people who lived to old age. He liked the climate there believing it was conducive for health. Historical records show that the name Sichang has existed since the early Ayutthaya period. There is no definite evidence as to its origin: some believe that the name may have originated from the Khmer word Satueng, meaning a deep body of water, which is description of the sea surrounding of the island. Others believe that the name is derived from a Pali word meaning "the legs of the lion," to conform with the island's physical appearance. King Rama V visited the island while still a prince and by the time he came to the throne it was a popular holiday resort among Westerners. As a result, authorities built lodges for rent there. In 1888, Prince Maha Vajiravudh was taken ill and the court doctor advised to move him to a place near the sea. King Rama V decided to send him to recuperate at one of the lodges on Ko Sichang, where he remained for eight months and eventually regained his health. Not long afterwards, Princess Saovabha Phongsri also became ill. After a long treatment in Bangkok, her condition still did not improve. She too came to Ko Sichang to convalesce and gradually regained her health. In 1891, another son of the king - Prince Asdang Dejavudh then just three years old - became ill and was sent to Ko Sichang. The prince's condition being quite serious, he spent several years on the island during which the king visited him on several occasions, often spending a considerable amount of time on the island. It explains why many sites on the island are named after him. It was in 1892 that he decided to build a summer retreat, the Phra Chudadhuj Palace. It comprises several large and small residences and the landscaping was done in harmony with the natural surroundings. For the island's residents, he built public utilities: roads, bridges, a lighthouse, schools, temples, monuments and had wells dug to ensure easy access to drinking water. The longest route on the island is Asdang Road that starts from a bridge by the same name and runs along the beach to Thewawong pier in the north. Later, King Rama V had the road be extended to Phanurangsi pier. The total length is 2.4 kilometres. Several other roads were also built and named after members of the royalty and others who accompanied them on such visits. The island is on the navigational route of ships sailing between Chanthaburi and estuaries of the Chao Phraya River. The island is protected from strong winds by high mountains and it has thrived as a deep-sea port convenient for large cargo vessels. Evidence suggests that in 1879, during the reign of King Rama V, the sea, its depth and rocks around the island were mapped and iron buoys put up to caution passing ships. If you have visited Vimanmek Mansion in Bangkok, you will know it is the biggest building in the world made from golden teak. Its roots can be traced to Ko Sichang. Originally called Phratinang Manthatratanarot, it was the royal residence within the compound of Chudadhuj Palace. Three storeys high and built in octagonal shape, it sat by a beach near the Asadang Bridge. Construction began in 1892 and work was still in progress when long simmering dispute between France and Siam spilled into the open. French troops invaded and occupied Ko Sichang, bringing construction to a complete halt. After the dispute was settled and mansion completed, the king never again spent a night on the island. In 1900 while visiting towns along the eastern coast, the king travelled to the island, only to find Phratinang Manthatratanarot deserted. He had the building pulled down and relocated to the Dusit Palace in Bangkok where it's re-assembled and renamed Phratinang Vimanmek or Vimanmek Mansion. But traces of the mansion's original foundations can still be seen in the palace compound on the island. The Chudadhuj Palace is still a picture of grace, serenity and frangipani gardens. At the height of dry season the trees may appear bereft of leaves but the atmosphere is scented by fallen blooms adorning the walkways. Buildings in palace compound were recently renovated but the atmosphere is still tinged with a nostalgia reminiscent of the times of King Rama V. Ruen Wattana, Ruen Phongsi, Ruen Aphirom and others have been revived to their original grace. Inside are exhibits telling visitors about the great king and his island visits. When the sun is closer to the horizon, locals and visitors idle along the waterfront enjoying the cool sea breeze. Spotting a spire up a hill, I walked a narrow road to find out what it stood for: Wat Asdangkanimit. Its architecture wasn't traditional Thai but Western-influenced, its Gothic elements shone on the doors and windows adorned with stained glass. In front of the temple compound King Rama V had planted a Bodhi tree he brought from Boddh Gaya, India, he visited in 1889; it stands to this day. At the palace entrance is the Cholatassathan Museum that features marine life found around Ko Sichang and the local ecology. Admission is free of charge. King Rama V's presence on the island is not confined just to the palace but it can also be felt at Ko Sichang School that has a stone inscribed by the monarch. It has now been given the cover of a roof. There is a point on the island from where the king used to enjoy a panoramic view of the surroundings. Called Chong Khao Khad, it is marked by a white concrete link called Asdang Bridge and accessible to the public. Under the bridge you can see anglers sitting patiently on rocks waiting for fish to take the bait. Not far from the bridge is cosy resort ideal for those who crave privacy but should you fancy beachfronts and fresh seafood, head for the beach at Tham Phang; you'll not be disappointed. MORE INFO Ko Sichang can be reached by regular boat service from the pier at Ko Loi in Si Racha, Chon Buri. From Bangkok buses leave Ekamai and Mo Chit bus terminals regularly. It is a two-hour ride. At Si Racha take a motorcycle taxi or a tuk-tuk to the pier. Boats leave for Ko Sichang at 7am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm and 7pm. It takes about 45 minutes to get there. Once on the island, tricycle taxis can deliver visitors to various resorts. A sightseeing tour of the island can take a few hours. The charge is 250 baht per trip that includes visit to the Khao Yai Shrine, the Chudadhuj Palace, Chong Khao Khad and the beach at Tham Phang. Motorcycles can also be rented at the pier. Accommodation - Benz Bungalow near Chudadhuj Palace, tel: 038-216-091. Other attractions include Buddha's footprint and Wat Tham Yai Prik that also has a meditation centre. |