Buri Ram: Old is gold
For somebody who is more in tune with current affairs, I never contemplated my first sojourn to the northeastern province of Buri Ram bordering Cambodia would engender in me a sense of appreciation for history, particularly Thailand's, and its rich cultural heritage and roots.
Friends had advised me that a trip to Buri Ram, which means the "City of Happiness", wouldn't be complete if I didn't visit the ancient Khmer sanctuaries of Prasat Hin Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam.
"Why these two places in particular?" I asked. A well-travelled acquaintance explained that although there are numerous magnificent structures in the southern part of Buri Ram, Phanom Rung is the most breathtaking example of Khmer architecture in Thailand.
On the other hand Prasat Hin Muang Tam, or the "Lower City", which is eight kilometres from Prasat Hin Phanom Rung, showcases an earlier example of Khmer temple architecture. Its main features are five brick towers surrounded by laterite ponds, each guarded by a five-headed Naga. Buri Ram was once part of the Khmer Empire and is littered with ancient relics and ruins.
I checked in at Suan Nok Resort, famous for the large number of birds it keeps. After a restful night, I departed the next morning for Phanom Rung Historical Park in the district of Chalerm Phrakiat. During the 64-km ride to the sanctuary, I felt a sense of awe at the prospect of walking through the gates and arches of the majestic temple built at the site of a volcano long extinct. My usher was Therd Kachanthorn. Despite his physical disability, Therd is jovial character. He's been a professional guide at Phanom Rung for a decade. He had a great sense of humour. The 36-year-old Buri Ram native began by telling us that "Phanom Rung" in Khmer meant "Big Mountain".
As we ascended the stairway which leads to the court and the outer gallery, Therd told us that the complex housed an extraordinary collection of Khmer sculptures, including intricate lintels glorifying the Hindu deity, Shiva, and three Naga bridges which were the only examples of their kind in Thailand.
Therd had a knack for relating history in a satirical manner. He enlivened the mood by quizzing us about Thai history. He told us to closely observe each lintel and sculpture because every brick was intricately interwoven with the architecture and every object was there to tell a story.
Therd told us that the Northeast was a centre of culture from prehistoric times through to the Khmer period in the 12th and 13th centuries when Khmer architecture was at its peak. Phanom Rung shares a number of similarities with Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but Therd feels that the former is more alluring. We manoeuvred through the arched gateway and the inner galleries with utmost reverence to the sculptures of lords Shiva and Vishnu.
Another interesting aspect about this exquisite piece of architectural wonder, Therd explained, is that the fifteen doors of the temple reflect different patterns of light when the sun's rays pass through them.
We were given a few moments to reflect on Phanom Rung's history before leaving for Prasat Muang Tam. I was highly impressed by Therd's ability to keep us engaged throughout the temple tour so I asked him how he became so good at his craft.
"I enjoy what I do... and that is telling visitors about what makes Phanom Rung stand out from the rest of the ruins found in this part of Thailand.
"As a guide, I believe that it is important to tell history in a manner that it's exciting. And that is why I add my own jokes when narrating it. I understand that not everyone is a history buff, so I try to give modern-day comparisons on some historical events to get people's attention," he replied.
Therd has been voted "Best Guide" by the province twice. His physical handicap hasn't stood in the way of his work.
Just a stone's throw away is another ancient Khmer masterpiece, the Prasat Muang Tam. Not as colossal as Phanom Rung, it is located in Prakhon Chai District and dedicated to Hindu god Shiva. Looking closely, I saw that the outer wall and archways were rectangular laterite blocks topped with finials, while the doors were made from carved sandstone. Eight lotus petals were engraved on the floor representing the universe, purity and good luck. Visitors can't help feeling a sense of occasion strolling the temple compound.
The temples aside, Buri Ram is also home to a forest park that sits on an extinct volcano called Khao Kradong. On the top of this hill, of which the height is 265 metres above sea level, is a pool, the crater of the volcano, around which thrives several species of plant and animal life. Khao Kradong should specifically appeal to ecotourists.
Located about six kilometres south of downtown Buri Ram, the park is connected by a metalled road lined with Buddha statues in various postures. On reaching the park visitors can, either by car or on foot, get to Phra Suphat Bophit, the towering hilltop statue of Lord Buddha that's highly revered by Buri Ram natives. The climb to the top is quite challenging, but ideal for trekkers. At sunset, the view of Buri Ram from the hilltop is truly exhilarating.
Adjacent to the statue is an ancient pagoda which houses a replica of Lord Buddha's footprint. Another interesting spot is the Kradong Reservoir which offers an imposing view of Phra Suphat Bophit.
The Bunyanusat Camp for scouts and a zoo are the other attractions in the vicinity of Khao Kradong, ideal for family picnic.
After an exciting day of exploring Khmer ruins and capturing Buri Ram's picturesque sunset through my lens, we ended the tour by sampling northeastern dishes at Baan Sor Resort, which also offers homestay.
The family-run restaurant is popular with locals and foreign tourists for its home-made recipes that include omelette with chicken stuffing; steamed fish with local dip, and pork spare ribs served with tomato gravy.
After dinner, the owners took us around the property, which also has a vegetable garden and a mini-zoo. Homestay is getting popular among tourists visiting Buri Ram, explained the resort's manager, adding that promoting the province's rich history and traditions by offering honest and friendly service was the best way to make an impression on them.
"People often make a deeper impression on tourists than the place itself," the manager said.
I couldn't have agreed more.
And I must thank our guide, Therd, who helped me to appreciate history in a manner I have never felt before.
MORE INFO
HOW TO GET THERE
- Car
From Bangkok take Highway No. 1 to Saraburi and move on to Highway No. 2 to Nakhon Ratchasima. Once there, take Highway No. 226 to Buri Ram. The total distance is 384 kilometres.
- Bus
Buses depart from Bangkok's Mochit 2 Bus Terminal for Buri Ram every day. Contact Transport Co Ltd at 02-936-2852-66 for more information.
- Rail
Train depart Hua Lamphong Railway Station for Buri Ram every day. Call 1690 or 02-223-7010-20 if you need more information.
- Air
Phuket Air flies Bangkok-Buri Ram every day. The airport in Buri Ram is in Satuek sub-district, 40 kilometres north of downtown. Call 1566 or 02-628-2000 for more information.
FESTIVALS
- Buri Ram Boat Race
This is held on the first Saturday of November on Mun River and is contested in front of the Satuek district office.
- Isan Kite Festival
This festival is held on the first weekend of December, which is harvest time and the start of the cool season in Thailand. A popular pastime among local villagers, kite-flying has a long tradition in Buri Ram. Participants bring their own kites and the winner or `Wao Aek' is judged by taking into account kite design, its prowess mid-air and the sound it produces when in flight.
- Khao Phanom Rung Fair
This annual fair takes place every April when rays of the sun pass through the temple's 15 doorways, creating a solar spectacular that's a testimony to the unmatched skills of its builders. Other activities include traditional Khmer procession and light and sound presentation.
HOMESTAY/RESORTS & RESTAURANTS
- Pa Toomthong Homestay: 044-68-6044, 09-846-2756.
- Bird Resort: 044-605-169, 044-605-123.
- Buriram Sirarom: 044-612-504, 044-611-740; fax: 044-612-504.
- Grand Hotel: 044-611-089, 044-611-179, 044-611-938; fax: (044) 612-358.
- Phanom Piman Ratjabhat Institute: 044-621-205-7, 044-611-121.
- Aunty Thai Food Restaurant: 044-625-514.
- Baan Sau Restaurant & Resort: 044-631-631, 01-660-2223.
Bangkok Post September 2005, www.bangkokpost.com
